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Berlin-based commercial photographer duo Miguel Hahn and Jan-Christoph Hartung (known professionally as Hahn+Hartung) recently completed a project published by return editorial client Der Spiegel, a leading German print and digital news magazine. Established in 1947, Der Spiegel covers a wide range of topics including politics, business, culture, and science. The magazine is highly influential in Germany and internationally, often setting the agenda for public discourse and policy discussions. For this stills project, Miguel and Jan-Christoph conceived of a series of environmental portraits documenting a fashion trend in Southeast Asia, where tourists and locals are mixing counterfeit luxury fashion items into their everyday lives. The series was published in Spiegel Online in March 2024.
Many people in Southeast Asian countries, especially those with lower incomes, wear knockoffs of luxury fashion brands such as Prada, Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Chanel, Versace, and Gucci. They can be found in shopping malls and night markets. A study by Access Asia Consulting a few years ago found that almost half of the luxury brand clothing on sale in the Cambodian capital, Phnom Penh, is counterfeit. The customers include many European and American tourists, as well as the local population.
We started this as a personal project. While working on another project in Cambodia, we noticed creative outfits that combined traditional clothing with counterfeit luxury items. We ended up photographing these outfits in four different locations: Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, and Bangkok. We have collaborated with Spiegel Online in the past, and the client showed interest in the new series.
After completing the project, Miguel and Jan-Christoph sent the photos to their contacts at Der Spiegel.
When we pitched the story to Gillian Henn, the picture editor from the foreign desk, and she suggested combining the photos the with an interview featuring ethnologist Dr. Piyarat Panlee of Kasetsart University near Bangkok.
Dr. Panlee explained that many of the people there participating in the trend are unaware that these logos represent luxury brands elsewhere. They buy these items because they are inexpensive.
As the duo had multiple projects in Southeast Asia concurrently, Miguel and Jan-Christoph often found themselves in zeitnot, and had to be both strategic and deliberate when capturing this series.
Typically, Chris (Jan-Christoph) and I shoot alone on these kinds of stories while traveling. Sometimes, friends we meet during our travels assist us (like the one in the BTS video). We also hire local fixers and researchers as needed. On this trip, it was difficult to find good help because most fixers were booked months in advance.
As we were working on another project simultaneously, we didn’t have as much time as we would have liked. However, it was beneficial for us to use our spare time to make the series, while waiting for developments on the other project.
Two months after Der Spiegel’s feature ran, The Guardian published Miguel and Jan-Christoph’s new series as well.
We were quite excited about the project because it was a fun shoot about something we found interesting. Counterfeit luxury items blur social class lines, allowing diverse groups to appear wealthy. The manufacturing and sale of these goods create jobs, particularly in Cambodia and Vietnam, despite undermining genuine brands’ revenues and raising ethical questions. This trend highlights the demand for ethically produced and sustainable fashion. Our project captures how counterfeit luxury fashion in Southeast Asia is a form of cultural exchange and empowerment, reflecting the region’s social and economic realities and the integral role of fashion in daily life.
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