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The Drag Scene in Raleigh: Justin Kase Conder for Walter Magazine

BY Brandi Spering 28 November 2022
Portraiture

Raleigh, North Carolina commercial and editorial photographer Justin Kase Conder utilized his portrait skills while on assignment for a recent issue of local arts and culture publication, Walter Magazine. His editorial photography documented writer Billy Warden as he stepped into the heels of drag for his nine-page story, “A Diva is BORN.” 

Tearsheet from Walter Magazine showing Justin Kase Conder's image of Billy Warden in drag

Justin started working with Walter Magazine in 2017, after making a cold call to Creative Director Laura Wall. After his portfolio was reviewed, Justin became one of the publication’s go-to photographers, with cover-worthy assignments.

Billy Warden getting his makeup done, portrait by Justin Kase Conder

You’ve seen those magazines that have 95% ads and two paragraphs worth of actual content. Walter Magazine is the antithesis of that and that’s one of the reasons I like working with them. It’s a symbiotic relationship; they offer interesting assignments that intrigue me.

A closeup showing the application of false lashes, taken in South Raleigh, North Carolina

Justin collaborated with writer Billy Warden in the past — in fact, they see each other most mornings while working out at the YMCA near downtown Raleigh. One morning, Billy shared that he pitched a story on drag to Ayn-Monique Klahre, editor of Walter Magazine. Soon after, Laura reached out to ask if Justin would photograph it. 

An action shot of Billy Warden receiving makeup setting spray

Raleigh is a forward-thinking city, which Walter Magazine showcases. (There are more drag shows here than in Charlotte, which has a substantially larger population.) 

A still life image showing a makeup brush dangling above a container of blue glitter

Justin and Billy discussed the photo shoot over the phone, a few days prior to it. It was important for Justin to clarify who his primary subject would be, as Brandon Moore and Justin Burleyson would also be present. Each took on the role of being Billy’s drag mother as their respective alter egos: Kayla Lashay and Emory Starr.

An editorial photograph showing Billy transform into drag, by photojournalist Justin Kase Conder for Walter Magazine

Half of the images were created during their practice run at Brandon’s home, which Billy described in the article as a “gleaming mid-century ranch in South Raleigh, where the wardrobe room barely contains the riot of sequined gowns and headdresses.” 

billy warden putting on a pair of tights in front of a sequin wardrobe, photographed in South Raleigh

Drag queens – it doesn’t get more fun than that! But I will say, Kayla, the primary protagonist of the written story, is very serious about the work that she does. The article dives into how much money she spends on makeup and wardrobe, which Kayla makes herself. That’s impressive. I want to do justice to that. I want to show how much time, energy, and money she’s put into that process because it’s a tremendous amount. 

A portrait of Billy Warden smiling as a wig is adjusted on his head

The second set of images were taken at a drag show a week later on Halloween night, where Billy made his first public appearance as Debbie D. Lirious. Justin stayed from early afternoon to three in the morning because “the LGBTQ+ community knows how to party.”

An editorial photograph taken by Justin Kase Conder showing Billy Warden's hands as he adjusts his rings for his debut as Debbie D. Lirious

When I was younger, I didn’t pick up the camera because I loved taking pictures. I picked it up  because I wanted to work outside and meet different people every day. I wanted to have some autonomy. That’s what led me to editorial photography, and that’s why I love working with Walter Magazine.

Debbie D. Lirious strikes a pose at a Raleigh, North Carolina drag show on Halloween night 2021

More than anything, I was proud of the opportunity to tell that story as an ally of the LGBTQ+ community. What drives me as a photographer, even in my commercial work, is being able to connect with people, whether it’s a commercial or editorial project. Subjects often let their walls down so you can see into their world. While photographing for “A Diva is BORN,” I learned of the challenges and frustrations that come along with being a drag queen while on this assignment and I set out to do their story justice. 

A tearsheet from Billy Warden's piece, "a diva is BORN," photographed by photojournalist Justin Kase Conder for Walter Magazine

See more of Justin’s work on his website.

Credits

Writer: Billy Warden
Editor: Ayn-Monique Klahre
Creative Director: Laura Petrides Wall


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